The NV 30 Years Old Tawny Port was bottled in 2017 with a long cork and 113 grams of residual sugar. Impeccably balanced, this still has plenty of concentration and power. It is also beautifully textured, with a certain unctuous feel. Then, it finishes with the familiar old-Tawny medley of figs, caramel and molasses. Complex and moderately dense, this is most notable for its bright, juicy and lingering finish. There is some tension here. Every time I went back to this, I liked it more. It's not the biggest 30 this issue, but it is a very lively and fresh one, easy to drink and easy to admire.

Enticing, with orange peel, salted caramel, date, golden raisin and green tea notes that move in unison, picking up light floral and fig details along the way. There's a fine ripple of juicy acidity buried deeply, which extends the finish with subtle tension. Drink now.