Available in a dark, frosted bottle, the Feudi di San Gregorio 2016 Irpinia Aglianico Serpico has taken the proverbial turn toward tertiary aromas, or at least an initial turn, showing pressed blackberry and blackcurrant surrounded by tarry smoke, campfire ash and toasted spice. The 2016 vintage will be remembered for its power and its inner elegance, and those are exactly the traits that have carried this wine so far, and that will continue to shape its bottle-aging trajectory. There are dusty volcanic tones on the close, and the tannins are dry over a mid-weight mouthfeel. Only 8,000 bottles were made.

Firm and minerally, with a core of fine, dense tannins wrapped in flavors of crushed black and red cherry, iron, earth, tobacco and dark chocolate. Fresh and graceful on the palate despite its tight mesh, this opens slowly and lingers on the well-spiced finish. Drink now through 2034. 1,000 cases imported.