Pegau's 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc Cuvée Réservée is almost Burgundian in character, the way it balances upfront generosity with mouthwatering length. The flavors are different, offering hints of crushed stone, underripe pineapple, white peach and dried spices, then this medium to full-bodied wine adds vaguely chalky textural elements on the long finish. Silky and streamlined, it does a wonderful job of preserving freshness throughout.

Dark and brooding, this has serious heft, with tightly coiled plum reduction and black licorice offset by savory tea, menthol, smoked meat and iodine. A great example of an old-school style, with mineral intensity building and salty iron and grippy tannins carrying the finish. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Best from 2024 through 2035. 6,667 cases made, 1,250 cases imported.

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Réservée was hard to read and incredibly reductive, which is a trait I've never seen from this estate. Black fruits, licorice, and roasted garrigue are all present in this medium to full-bodied, structured, tannic, firm wine. It's a head scratcher, but hopefully I'll be able to taste this again next year before it's released. Given the quality of the vintage, it should be better than this showing.