This rich, focused Champagne offers a core of pain d'épices spices, with flavors of apple tart, lemon zest, graham cracker and a touch of crystallized honey. Very elegant, with a restrained energy and a lingering finish. Drink now through 2021.

The Pierre Moncuit NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Hugues de Coulmet is sourced entirely from the estate's roughly dozen acres in the Cote de Sezanne. Scents of fresh apple and lemon that set the tone for this bottling's juicy, tart-edged and delicate palate impression are alluringly garlanded with honeysuckle and jasmine. An umami-rich and mouthwatering evocation of salted, sauteed shitake mushrooms along with piquancy of toasted hickory nuts make for a long finish that renders the next sip irresistible; and eight grams of residual sugar are well-suited to this cuvee's efficacious acidity. It should give great pleasure over the coming couple of years, though I would not want to miss out on its current performance.