Graphite and mineral hints underscore the ripe and appealing notes of white cherry, nectarine, pomelo and pickled ginger on display in this bright, elegant version, with a finely detailed mousse. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Drink now. 166,667 cases made, 5,833 cases imported.

(made from roughly one-third each of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier; LB112D32511): Light yellow. Toasty lees, poached pear and lemon rind on the pungent nose. Offers an array of sappy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and becomes spicier with air. The lemon and lees notes come back on the broad, clear finish.

The latest release of Deutz's NV Brut Classic is showing nicely, offering up notes of citrus, crisp orchard fruit, fresh bread and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with a nicely layered core of fruit and a pearly mousse, it's pure and elegant, exemplifying the house's understated style.

A soft, gentle style of non-vintage Champagne, due perhaps to its relatively high dosage. But the whole wine is well in balance, the white fruits themselves giving a fine, elegant roundness.