The 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva is another super-classic wine in this range from Fèlsina. Dried herbs, game, scorched earth, tobacco, incense and dark fruit infuse the Riserva with tons of nuance. The Riserva conveys tons of village character as well as the house style.

A solidly built red introduced by aromas of mint, lavender and wild rosemary. Shows cherry, raspberry, earth, iron, sanguine and tobacco flavors allied to an almost viscous texture as this cruises to the long finish. Impressive now, yet will be better in three to five years. Best from 2026 through 2045. —B.S.

A juicy and pretty wine with berries, chocolate, and bark. Subtle. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that are slightly chewy and austere now but will soften nicely with age. Better after 2025.

In a bottle with a black label, the Fèlsina 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardenga shows an open-knit quality with soft fruit flavors of dark cherry and baked plum. Those fruit flavors are followed by pretty mineral notes and light spice. That openness and those sweet cherry flavors are characteristic of the warm 2020 growing season. The wine finishes with bright acidity that is typical of Sangiovese.